Wednesday, February 16, 2011

India... tired

So, I will be in India for six months next week. This has been quite the journey so far. Learning many things about India and myself, but lately have become exhausted by the data I have been collecting. This exhaustion stems not from the actual collection of data but from the type of data being collected.

I have been studying this local farming family here in Banaras for going on two weeks. The live in a home that is about 20ftx25th. This open space is one room and only half covered by the tin and bamboo they have acquired. The rest is open to the sky and the elements. They share their one small twin-sized bed between the 6 family members. They also share this small space they call home with 7 buffalo and two cows. The shit is everywhere and so is the urine.  The family milks the buffalo to see that in the market. They milk the cows to feed themselves. They barely make enough to feed themselves. I have so far spent every day for nearly two weeks working among them, learning their habits, wants, and needs. This is hard on me, emotionally and spiritually, but last weekend there was an event that really hurt me. It hurt me because there is almost nothing I can do about it. Here is my journal post for that evening. This is what living in India is like for them. This is why I do not know how it is changing me. Maybe you can make sense of it...

~ Craig Leon Koller

    Over the last few days, I have really seen into the hearts of each and every family member. Saturday night I witnessed my first form of domestic abuse. The father of the family had snapped. The cow mother of Rose, the young calf that the family keeps, acts up constantly and causes much destruction, and I’ve noticed that this has been a large source of tension among the family.
     Early Saturday morning the cow destroyed the families door. She had broken through it in an attempt to reach her baby calf. When I first met the family I had noticed that the there was only three-fourths of the door still intact, but when I returned on Saturday the door, being a swinging door with two separate sections which swing independently, now only had one-fourth remaining. The left door was barely attached to the crumbling brick wall, while this door only had a small beam protruding from it, all panels having been torn from it. The right-hand door had the top most section still intact but was missing it’s bottom two panels.
    This door is usually left open so the cows a buffalo can pass through on their way into the house. At night the family shuts the door get at least a semblance of privacy, from their neighbors and the foreigners staying at the guest house. This is no longer possible, as their home is now open for the world to view and to come and go as it pleases. Imagine not having a door on your own home. The semblance of privacy for your home is shattered, only to be returned when the door is replaced, but you do not have the money to replace the door, so it remains broken, lying in pieces around your small home.
    This cow comes and goes as she pleases. Coming into the home trying to eat the families piles of grain. There sound of Hut! Hut! Hut! can be heard around the neighborhood, as the family uses a stick of bamboo to hit the cow, forcing her out of the house, only for her to come back inside five minutes later, creating the same problem and being forced around the support pole back outside, or to be tied up. While she is tied up however she is constantly restless, yanking on her rope leash.
    Even the other animals have problems with her. Every time she gets close to one of the buffalo they buck their heads toward her, in an attempt to hit her. I think they know the problems she causes.
    The father, having told me how he was in pain earlier, had taken some medicine to alleviate some it. However, the mother had not given him any money to buy pan that day, so this only added to his irritation. The mother is in control of all the families money, and she gives it out very frugally to the members. This, I feel, is a sore point with the father, and it may have been the cause of some of his anger as well.
    That evening, Shatan1 was being particularly restless and the father finally had enough.  He hit her constantly, yanking her leash,  trying to get her to submit and calm down. His language was very bad during this time, using every cuss-word I know, and even more than I have knowledge of. His temperament appeared to be going into a type of rage, and the women did not appreciate how dirty his language became, so they began yelling at him, trying to silence him.
    He worked himself up so much, that he started yelling at the son how he doesn’t do any work for the family, and doesn’t make any money for the family. The conversation at this time took a turn for the worse, and I could not understand a lot of what was said. Annil, the oldest daughter in the house, somehow got involved yelling and moving closer to the father in a threatening manner. The other young daughter had also stood by her sister yelling. The mother, throughout the entire ordeal stood in between the father and the daughters, holding the daughters back from doing anything that would invoke more from the father. This however only cause the father to yell louder and the daughters to do the same. The father finally in a fit of rage struck the mother across the face with a backhand blow. The mother staggered away stunned at the strike, almost falling. The daughters caught her before she would fall. The room suddenly falling silent, the father returned to milk one of the buffalo, cursing the entire time.
    When Anni knew the mother would be able to stand on her own, the fight continued verbally, between her and the father. The mother still trying to stand, staggered her way in between the father and daughter again, holding her face where she had been struck. The youngest daughter joined her in holding back the sister. The daughter and father lunging at each other screaming at the top of their lungs about he had hit the mother.
    During this entire time I sat over on the other side of the room. I was unsure of what I could or should do. How could I help? Was it even my place to step? When does ‘participant observation’ go too far? I sat there blank faced as the father backhanded the mother. What could I do? It was not even my country, my home, or my family.
    Finally, I was so moved by what was being said and the actions of each of the family members that I decided to step in. I could only see that this was going to lead to more violence and more abuse. I ran forward, shoving the father back toward the buffalo, holding the mother and daughters back with my other arm. I yelled at the top of my lungs in hindi, “KEEP SILENT! While I remain here, things in this manner will not happen!”
    My hindi may have been broken but my point had been proven. The father went back to his work quietly mumbling and swearing, the daughters quietly told me to sit down and that everything will be okay. Anni went back to cooking and the mother sat down on the bed holding her face in pain. The father finished his work and left the house. The oldest son through the entire ordeal, sat quietly on a sack of grain, elbows on his knees watching but intervening in no way. Did I do the right thing? I do not know, but I did what I thought was right, and that stopped more violence.
    I sat back down, stunned over the events that occurred. Not knowing what to do, what to think, I just sat there. Slowly the mood in the house changed, everyone trying to cheer everyone else up. The son, after being scolded by his sisters that he did not do anything, finally got up and left. The mother told me that this was the first time he had ever hit her, and she made threats of moving into Ashram or doing this or that. I couldn’t understand much of what was said, but I knew things in the house would not be ‘normal’ from here on out. The night finished out over a quiet supper. The father returned after a while, walked me back to my guest house.
    Anni, the older daughter called my phone later that night, after I had returned home,  asking if there was any way for me to take her to America with me, asking me if she needed to marry me to make it happen. I told I would think on it, and that we could discuss it later. In all seriousness, I did think on this matter. I thought on it for three days, seeing how if it would be possible if is so, could I financially make it happen. Looking online to see what types of visas would be necessary, if marrying here would be the best option or what else would need to be done to make it happen,  all to try and make her life better. Would bringing her to America make her life better? I do not know the answer to that question, because I do not know what it really means to have a good life. Yes, having a house with a car and a job are all symbols of the American dream, but I know that if she were to return to America with me she would be very lonely and quite sad.
    She has no formal education, and the only skill that I see she has are cooking over a dung fire and washing her family’s clothes. She can barely leave the house due to cultural restraints, and I see that on a daily basis, she only interacts with the members of her family. If she were to return to America with me, she would be a 19 year old women, living in what ever place I would call my home. I would be working a full-time job as well has attempting to educate her formally as well as trying to teach her about American culture. This, I feel, would be the biggest burden of all. She has never experienced the outside world in anyway, and to give that to her on a whim, might prove to be devastating.
    In the field, I am sure, people are forced with decisions like this all time. Whether you are a field researcher, a journalist, or just an independent traveler, the question will always remain; Do we help, or do we just stand by and report our findings? ... Of this, I am certain.

Wednesday, January 19, 2011

My letter to Grandpa Victor...

Here is the letter I requested to be read at the services for Grandpa and Grandma, may the both rest in peace after over 30 years of marriage. Their life together is a love story that none can match, but we sure as hell can try. (A link to the obituary is provided below)

Dear Grandpa Victor,
I write to you literally as far away from home as I possibly could be, India. Yet, at this time, I feel as if I have never known you better. When I was a young boy growing up on the farm, I feel as if I rarely had the opportunity understand who you were. You would pull up in your shiny Buick and I would know that it was you, and get excited, but I felt that we lacked any connection other than you be my father’s father.
This fact was made clear to me when you bought me a brand new bicycle. I laugh to this day when I remember what you told me then, “This bike will be really good for when you go to church on Sunday. It has this thing that will stop mud from getting your Sunday nickers dirty.” When you said this, I was a little more excited that I had a new bike then I was about keeping my Sunday nickers clean. I didn’t even know what nickers were.
Now that I look back on that, I see how different we were. You coming from the far off city of Milwaukee, and me sloshing around on the farm getting dirty and not even knowing what a big city truly was. You thought I would be riding my bicycle to church, I thought it would be cool to ride that bike around the farm getting it dirty and not having a care in the world. Sunday Nickers? Ha! I see now that you were more worried about me going to Sunday mass, then if I got my pants dirty. Grandpa, your life was grounded in your faith. This simple fact at times made me uncomfortable around you. Your faith was so strong, and my own so weak, that at times you were probably uncomfortable around me. 
After leaving the farm and moving to a new town and new perspective, I had the opportunity to understand you a little better. We had the opportunity to enjoy a little more company together, but I still lacked some understanding of who you were as my grandfather. Then, when I was 17, I had the opportunity to spend the summer with you, while working for my godfather, your son Greg. I would go to work and come back to you and grandma’s house and enjoy evenings and dinners together. That summer we truly got the chance to come to a sort of mutual understanding regarding our difference in faith. I would go to mass with you when I had time, and you wouldn’t ask me too much about it otherwise. 
That summer, I also had the opportunity to help you get things done around the house which I know was a great relief to you and Grammy. I know it never ceased to amaze you that whenever I mowed your I would ruin that same piece of grass by the garage, or that time when you set me to weeding the garden, only to find out later I had pulled out Grammy’s favorite flowers. I hope she didn’t give you to rough of a time for that one. 
That next year, you saw three of your grandchildren going to the same University, about an hour away. We would visit you when we could and you often would try to visit us as well. I had the opportunity to come and visit with you and Grammy over the next few years multiple times. Those weekends when I would come up from Whitewater and we chat politics, play card games, or discuss just the right manner for me to mow your lawn. This time in my life I knew it was important to be with my family, because after my own bout with cancer, I understood that families don’t last forever. 
With our time together you had the opportunity to pass on many things to me, like to pursue my dreams and to do so with passion, but I feel that the most important thing you taught me was how vitally important family is. With your help, and having spent this extended time away from my own family, I can now see how without family we lack a certain moral grounding we will not receive elsewhere. Without family, we have very few if any people to turn to in our times of need. 
Grandpa, before I left for India I understood that there was a chance I would never get an opportunity to say my final goodbye you or Grammy. Little did I know I would never get the chance to say goodbye to either of you. I won’t say goodbye grandpa, but what I want to say is, “Thank you!” Thank you from the bottom of my heart. Your wisdom has helped shape me into the man that I am becoming. A man strong in his faith, in his morals, and just proud enough not to be seen by his peers as arrogant. For these things and many more, thank you Grandpa Victor Leon Koller.
I am proud to be your loving grandson, always and forever,
~Craig Leon Koller










“By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.”
~Confucius



Obituary: http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/jsonline/obituary.aspx?page=lifestory&pid=147902692 

Sunday, January 9, 2011

India-Nepal-India

Sunday, January 9, 2011
India-Nepal-India
Forgive me family for I have sinned. It has been four weeks since my last confession...I mean post.

It has been a very busy four weeks as well. After leaving Darjeeling with my friend Ava, we made our way to the Eastern Indian-Nepali border. Having crossed over we took an overnight bus to Kathmandu, the polluted capital city of Nepal. We reached Kathmandu early in the morning, and we made our way to our hotel, in the tourist hub of Thamel district.
This area has everything a tourist in Nepal needs, except true Nepali culture. Throughout the next few days Ava and I procured new items that we would need on our trek. Sleeping bags, water bottles, water tablets, socks, long underwear, etc... This 'stuff' is all really good knock-off name-brand goods. I bought a new North Face gore-tex jacket for $40usd. Great buy (it kept me perfectly comfortable and warm on the entire trek).
We moved on from Kathmandu with a flight to literally the most dangerous airport in the world, ask a pilot, they should know about it, Lukla. This airport is situated on the side of a cliff, and is most likely slopped above 30degrees. When we were landing, all you can see out of the cockpit of your twin engine aircraft is cliff face! Then your back wheels touch down and you swing into the tiny airport, about the size of a high school basketball court, okay, maybe two...
We met our guide that morning in Kathmandu. Santosh is a 25 year old Nepali who has done the Everest trek over twenty times. This trek would take us about 11-13 days to complete, and it would be quite difficult. {I will go through the details of my trek on a later date, or I may wait until I get photos from my friends camera, or I may wait until I return to the states to tell all of you in person...Muwahaha, I hold the power of information... So this is what being the government feels like} I made the trek safe arrived in the Everest region on Christmas Eve, did an evening trek to a beautiful lookout where I saw the sunset. This sunset was gorgeous and it lit Everest up in beautiful Oranges Reds and Purples. Nope no pictures. My camera was not with me. This was a spiritual journey, where I didn't really want to focus on taking pictures. 
I met many people on the way. From an Indian lawyer who works in Singapore, to an American Geographer who does her work in the Arctic Circle, out of Barrow, Alaska. The people you meet traveling, give you new perspectives and new concepts regarding life. The conversations you have, the things you see while travelling together, give you a bond that you can not replicate anywhere else.
We arrived back in Kathmandu with the news that my Grandparents health has been ailing. This was some of the most difficult news I could hear while abroad. My grandmother, the doctors had found a brain tumor of some kind in October/November, has been struggling with that for a while. My Grandfather's gout has kicked in 'double-time' and he has been having difficulty walking and getting around their home. The decision was finally made that they should be 'put in a home.' This is a difficult decision for any family to make regarding their parents, and is never made lightly. I see 'nursing homes' as death homes. They are places where people go to live out their remaining days with the care that is necessary for them. This is a new phenomena that is taking place, as nursing homes used to be our homes. The comfort of family near by. The lives they lived, in the homes they lived them in, are close at hand. With pictures and things that they can see and touch, it would allow more closure. This new concept of a sterile 'passing' scares me. In some ways, I find that it takes the love out of death.
I celebrated my new years in Kathmandu with style. Meeting up with friends from the mountain and new friends from the streets, we partied till the bars closed then partied in our hotel room to bring in 2011. My bus happened to be early the morning of the 1st. Needless to say, I was pretty tired and hungover for my bus ride back to Varanasi. After quite an adventure on the bus (once again, more to come later), I arrived in Varanasi on the 2nd afternoon, and made my way to my new apartment. This larger place with a full (by Indian standards) kitchen and a small bathroom was much more of a home than my previous place. I can now cook meals regularly and have a nice bed. My room even has a porch to sit and read on. needless to say, my new place feels more like home than India ever has.
Last week Monday was my 22nd birthday. I celebrated by sitting at home alone reading a book (if you know me, I wouldn't have it any other way). I spent last week organizing and moving in. Getting classes started and working on my field research project.
I came in this morningn to begin my new tutorial class: Indian Martial Arts, Lathi. I will use this to help keep my mind focused and as an outlet for some of the stress I commonly acquire here.
This morning I received this email from my sister:

 Craig,
Grandma helen has recently become a lot sicker. They thought she had a stroke yesterday, but they found out her tumors grew. She is now unable to walk, speak, or swallow. Grandpa made the decision to bring her back to the nursing home for hospice care. I believe the plan is to move her today and stop all life supporting functions. So, I believe she only has a few days left. I know getting all of this over email in a foreign country is bot ideal, but I wanted to make sure you were in the loop because we all know how good dad is about informing people about things. I will be sure to update you with any news I get
I hope you are settle in your new place
I love you
Liz

This is what coping is, I now see it. Having to deal with emotions that come from the otherside of the world. What will I do? Do I go home? Do I stay here and tough it out? These are questions that people who travel have to ask themselves, all the time. We will see, but for now, my thoughts go to my family for this tough time.

All my love, always,
Craig

India-Nepal-India

Forgive me family for I have sinned. It has been four weeks since my last confession...I mean post.

It has been a very busy four weeks as well. After leaving Darjeeling with my friend Ava, we made our way to the Eastern Indian-Nepali border. Having crossed over we took an overnight bus to Kathmandu, the polluted capital city of Nepal. We reached Kathmandu early in the morning, and we made our way to our hotel, in the tourist hub of Thamel district.
This area has everything a tourist in Nepal needs, except true Nepali culture. Throughout the next few days Ava and I procured new items that we would need on our trek. Sleeping bags, water bottles, water tablets, socks, long underwear, etc... This 'stuff' is all really good knock-off name-brand goods. I bought a new North Face gore-tex jacket for $40usd. Great buy (it kept me perfectly comfortable and warm on the entire trek).
We moved on from Kathmandu with a flight to literally the most dangerous airport in the world, ask a pilot, they should know about it, Lukla. This airport is situated on the side of a cliff, and is most likely slopped above 30degrees. When we were landing, all you can see out of the cockpit of your twin engine aircraft is cliff face! Then your back wheels touch down and you swing into the tiny airport, about the size of a high school basketball court, okay, maybe two...
We met our guide that morning in Kathmandu. Santosh is a 25 year old Nepali who has done the Everest trek over twenty times. This trek would take us about 11-13 days to complete, and it would be quite difficult. {I will go through the details of my trek on a later date, or I may wait until I get photos from my friends camera, or I may wait until I return to the states to tell all of you in person...Muwahaha, I hold the power of information... So this is what being the government feels like} I made the trek safe arrived in the Everest region on Christmas Eve, did an evening trek to a beautiful lookout where I saw the sunset. This sunset was gorgeous and it lit Everest up in beautiful Oranges Reds and Purples. Nope no pictures. My camera was not with me. This was a spiritual journey, where I didn't really want to focus on taking pictures. 
I met many people on the way. From an Indian lawyer who works in Singapore, to an American Geographer who does her work in the Arctic Circle, out of Barrow, Alaska. The people you meet traveling, give you new perspectives and new concepts regarding life. The conversations you have, the things you see while travelling together, give you a bond that you can not replicate anywhere else.
We arrived back in Kathmandu with the news that my Grandparents health has been ailing. This was some of the most difficult news I could hear while abroad. My grandmother, the doctors had found a brain tumor of some kind in October/November, has been struggling with that for a while. My Grandfather's gout has kicked in 'double-time' and he has been having difficulty walking and getting around their home. The decision was finally made that they should be 'put in a home.' This is a difficult decision for any family to make regarding their parents, and is never made lightly. I see 'nursing homes' as death homes. They are places where people go to live out their remaining days with the care that is necessary for them. This is a new phenomena that is taking place, as nursing homes used to be our homes. The comfort of family near by. The lives they lived, in the homes they lived them in, are close at hand. With pictures and things that they can see and touch, it would allow more closure. This new concept of a sterile 'passing' scares me. In some ways, I find that it takes the love out of death.
I celebrated my new years in Kathmandu with style. Meeting up with friends from the mountain and new friends from the streets, we partied till the bars closed then partied in our hotel room to bring in 2011. My bus happened to be early the morning of the 1st. Needless to say, I was pretty tired and hungover for my bus ride back to Varanasi. After quite an adventure on the bus (once again, more to come later), I arrived in Varanasi on the 2nd afternoon, and made my way to my new apartment. This larger place with a full (by Indian standards) kitchen and a small bathroom was much more of a home than my previous place. I can now cook meals regularly and have a nice bed. My room even has a porch to sit and read on. needless to say, my new place feels more like home than India ever has.
Last week Monday was my 22nd birthday. I celebrated by sitting at home alone reading a book (if you know me, I wouldn't have it any other way). I spent last week organizing and moving in. Getting classes started and working on my field research project.
I came in this morningn to begin my new tutorial class: Indian Martial Arts, Lathi. I will use this to help keep my mind focused and as an outlet for some of the stress I commonly acquire here.
This morning I received this email from my sister:

 Craig,
Grandma helen has recently become a lot sicker. They thought she had a stroke yesterday, but they found out her tumors grew. She is now unable to walk, speak, or swallow. Grandpa made the decision to bring her back to the nursing home for hospice care. I believe the plan is to move her today and stop all life supporting functions. So, I believe she only has a few days left. I know getting all of this over email in a foreign country is bot ideal, but I wanted to make sure you were in the loop because we all know how good dad is about informing people about things. I will be sure to update you with any news I get
I hope you are settle in your new place
I love you
Liz

This is what coping is, I now see it. Having to deal with emotions that come from the otherside of the world. What will I do? Do I go home? Do I stay here and tough it out? These are questions that people who travel have to ask themselves, all the time. We will see, but for now, my thoughts go to my family for this tough time.

All my love, always,
Craig